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This is my second build from BYOC, and I enjoyed it! I finished the Blue Overdrive kit a few weeks ago and I LOVE it! I miss my old BD-2, but this one is everything the old Boss box was and more!

I'm SO SO SO glad this forum exists. I just put together my AC Rev3.1 kit and ran into the exact same issue as DangerMDV in his thread, "Analog Chorus. Troubleshooting - Over tinkered? No power to" And as fate may have it, I had also swapped the 33k and 330k resistors!

After swapping them out, I plugged it in and the LED lit up and the rate pot flashed beautifully across the entire range. I also set my trim pot to allow a reading of 5.4v at the 4558 IC as an initial jump-off point to find the sweet spot...

So, I button it up, plug in a guitar, and the bypass signals is crystal clear with no noise. I switch the unit on, and...NADA! No sound at all!

I'm [usually] really solid at assembling pedal kits. I'm quite meticulous about proper placement/orientation of my components (except for the 33k/330k resistor swap, I suppose), and do a fairly tidy job of soldering and organizing my wiring. I would like to think the problem doesn't lie in the quality of my connections. I'm well aware I am fairly new at pedal building and my future holds no shortage of further mistakes.

My initial voltage readings were very similar to DangerMDV's readings, and I'm running on DC input only--no batteries for me. Although it should make no difference, I swapped out the jacks included in the kit with Switchcraft jacks (mainly because I have a boatload of them on hand), and put a clear-blue LED in instead of the opaque one. I also used different color wires to the switch and jack. I also omitted the battery clip entirely from the wiring. My wiring setup is as follows:

Green #1: LH PCB ground to sleeve lug of Input Jack
Green #2: Sleeve lug of Input Jack to Lug #2 of footswitch
Yellow: PCB "LED" to Lug #1 of footswitch
Red: PCB "POS" to sleeve lug of DC Jack
White: PCB "IN" to Lug #5 of footswitch
Purple #1: PCB "OUT" to Lug #7 of footswitch
Purple #2: Tip lug of Input Jack to Lug #4 of footswitch
Purple #3: Lug #8 of footswitch to tip lug of Output Jack
Green #3: RH PCB ground to sleeve lug of Output Jack
Black: Tip lug of DC Jack to ring lug of Input Jack

As for the footswitch, the solder joints on the jumpers between lugs #3 and #6, and #4 and #9 are solid. The jumpers show good continuity and there is no bridging/grounding to other lugs.

I am a novice at reading schematics and diagnosing faults with my pedals.. Where should I start looking? I'll post pictures of the board/switch/wiring when I figure out how to get my photos resized from Google Photos to post in forums. I'll give it a shot here. Forgive me if they don't show...please let me know, and I'll figure something out.

Now that I've swapped the resistors back to where they should be, I've noticed my voltages changed in spots on the IC's; especially TL022 chip. Here are my IC voltages: [BEFORE FIX]

Voltage at DC Jack: 8.94v

TL022
1 ) [7.55v] Now jumps between 3.3-4.8v with Rate knob at noon (swings seem to vary in width depending on where the Rate knob is set, even with the pedal switched off)
2 ) 4.08v
3 ) [6.65v] Now jumps between 3.60-4.5v with Rate knob at noon
4 ) 0.00v
5 ) 4.09v
6 ) 4.16v
7 ) [0.67v] Now jumps between 3.7-4.3v with Rate knob at noon
8 ) 8.21v

3102
1 ) 7.96v
2 ) 3.86v
3 ) 0.00v
4 ) 3.87v
5 ) [0.81v] Now 0.23v
6 ) 7.67v
7 ) 2.60v
8 ) 7.44v

3207
1 ) 0.00v
2 ) 3.87v
3 ) [3.13v] Now 4.71v
4 ) 7.44v
5 ) 7.96v
6 ) 3.86v
7 ) [4.29v] Now 6.60v
8 ) [4.29v] Now 6.60v

4558
1 ) [3.79v] Now 5.41v (Changed by adjusting the trimpot)
2 ) [3.79v] Now 5.41v
3 ) [3.79v] Now 5.41v
4 ) 0.00v
5 ) [3.79v] Now 5.41v
6 ) [3.79v] Now 5.41v
7 ) [3.79v] Now 5.41v
8 ) 8.21v

Assuming the photo upload worked, please let me know what additional information you may need. I'm looking forward to hearing from you all and getting this pedal on my board! Thank you in advance!!!

--Jon

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-Jon (EastStreet Guitars)
Arvada, CO, USA
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Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear that you're having trouble w/ your Analog Chorus build. One question and two preliminary suggestions:

• Do you by chance have a signal tester? Like this one: https://buildyourownclone.myshopify.com ... gnaltester, though they are a simple device and it's easy to make your own.
• Though I'd agree that your soldering looks solid, a "cold joint" is often not visually obvious. Working through this process is something we often recommend as as first step in solving issues like yours, and it doesn't take very long to do: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188
• You might also want to do continuity tests to confirm that the internal footswitch connections between lugs 4 & 5 and between 7 & 8 are being made when the switch is in the engaged mode.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

While the chorus circuit is relatively complicated, if we break it up into sections, the part you need to focus on at the moment is rather simple. The LED is flashing, so that means the LFO section (TL022) is working. We really aren't concerned with the wet signal path (3102/3207) at this point.

What we're really only concerned with at this point is your dry signal path (4558), because if the dry signal path isn't working, then the wet signal path usually isn't working either.

You have your bias voltage set a little high. I don't think it's set high enough that you wouldn't get any dry signal, but please adjust it so that pins 3 and 5 of the 4558 are at 4.1V. For now, you want your bias voltage at the 4558 to be closer to 1/2 of your supply voltage, which is 8.2V.

The 4558 is clearly working correctly, so if adjusting the bias does not fix the dry signal, then the next most likely cause would be a poor solder joint or some break in continuity between footswitch lug 4 and 8 when the footswitch is in an "on" state. Bypass works, so we can assume your wiring between 4 and the input jack and 8 and the output jack are good.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com