Build Your Own Clone Message Board

First, I cant seem to upload my photos, so I need some guidance here.

I am getting output signal...although it sounds like mating dolphins, and/or helicopters
All of the controls seem to work as far as "shaping" the dolphin noises.
The LED does light up and blinks accordingly with the Rate adjustments.

However, I have ZERO input signal whether the pedal is switched on or in bypass, I'v e got nothing. I re-soldered the input jack and leads, as well as the pots, but still nothing.
I have checked all of my solder joints and I don't see any bridging. Nothing appears out of the ordinary.

I'm stumped.

I know you need photos, and will get them up as soon as I get some assistance on how to upload them, so please advise.

Thanks,
~Troy

Yes, we need to see photos. Try using the file attachment function right below the post editing box. They need to be 1MB or less in size, so you may need to reduce dimensions or color depth. In any case, the photos need to be well-focused, well-lit shots of BOTH sides of the PCB and all of the switch and jack wiring.

The other approach is to use a publicly accessible image posting website, like Imgur or similar, and post an image display call or a link here.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

https://imgur.com/SaYyugQ
https://imgur.com/9i7ITqm
https://imgur.com/tS5HapA
https://imgur.com/XtVU4IF
https://imgur.com/hRedFBG
https://imgur.com/imYZQSn

Hopefully these links will give you some insight.

Thanks,
~Troy

You need to get good bypass signal before we can see what else needs to happen. Here is some good guidance on troubleshooting bypass: http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52785

I can't quite see all of the wiring on your jacks, so I can't see if the jacks are wired correctly. It is easy to reverse the tip and ring connections on the enclosed jacks. That could account for the lack of bypass signal.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

ok. I think I have something wonky going on with the input jack.

While checking for continuity issues, I plugged a cable into the input jack to make sure the tip wasn't coming into contact with any other part/component.
In doing so, I tested to see if I had continuity between the tip and sleeve of the cable with the cable plugged in...and I do. I tested the cable, itself, and the cable is fine.
But there shouldn't be continuity between the tip and sleeve when it's, plugged in, right

I've gone over and all the wiring and everything seems to be in accordance with the instructions.
Attached are up-close pics of the jacks.

Input Jack: https://imgur.com/yU4aruU
Output Jack: https://imgur.com/WeEEznQ

Thanks,
~Troy

Test the input jack without a plug inserted and see if you have continuity between the tip and the ring or the tip and the shield. If not, when you insert the plug into the input jack, see if you can actually see the tip and ring tings touching the same bit of metal on the plug.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

yup. I sure do have continuity between the tip and sleeve lugs but not the tip and ring lugs.

Visually, i cant see anything obviously wrong with the internals of the jack.

I will desolder the the jack in a little bit and test the jack all by itself and report back.

Thanks,
~Troy

I desoldered the jack and tested it by itself. No continuity between any of the lugs so the jack is ok.

The PCB, however, has continuity between the tip and sleeve contact points

Not sure where to go from here.

Okay. This means that you have a short to ground somewhere in bypass path. If you test continuity on the output jack, you'll probably see the same short to ground. In bypass, the path goes input PCB pad > PCB pad 4 > footswitch lug 4 > FS lug 9 > FS lug 8 > PCB pad 8 > PCB pad OUT > output jack tip

Here are some possible shorts:
- Wire from PCB pad 4 > footswitch lug 4 > FS lug 9 has a stray strand of wire that is somehow shorted to ground
- Wire from FS lug 8 > PCB pad 8 has a stray strand of wire that is somehow shorted to ground
- Wiring on the output jack is incorrect or somehow shorted to ground

Here is how I would probably approach this (work backwards):
- Confirm the output jack is shorted tip to sleeve in bypass
- Remove the wire on PCB pad OUT and see if the PCB pad IN is still shorted to ground
- Remove the wire from FS lug 8 > PCB pad 8 and see if the PCB pad IN is still shorted to ground
- Remove the wire from PCB pad 4 > footswitch lug 4 > FS lug 9 and see if the PCB pad IN is still shorted to ground

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

ok. so...

The output jack is ok. No continuity between the tip and sleeve lugs or PCB contact points.

I moved onto the switch and began systematically disconnecting the wires/points in the order in which you described above.
After each one I disconnected, I tested the input jack to check to see if there was still continuity. If there was, then I reconnected the wire, and moved onto the next.

After disconnecting the PCB 4>switch lug 4>switch lug 9 the continuity issue ceased.
So this may be part of the issue.

However, I noticed (by sheer accident) that there is continuity between lug 7 and lug 9 on the switch without any wire connected to either one. Is that normal?

I will hold off rewiring anything more until I hear back from you as I think the switch may be at fault here.

Thanks,
~Troy

A disconnected switch should not have continuity between pins 7 and 9. If you don't already know, you can think of the stomp switch as 3 separate switches: "1-2-3" "4-5-6" and "7-8-9". The center pin of each group is switched from one side to the other. So pin 8 either connects to pin 7 or pin 9 depending on position of stomp switch (but never both at the same time). Disconnect pin 8 and test from 7 to 8, 9 to 8; while activating the switch (watch for it going from one side to the other). Then check from 7 to 9 again. If 7 and 9 are truly shorted with no wires connected to 7-8-9, the switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

_________________
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I think I must have a bad switch.

I have the switch completely disconnected from the PCB and I have continuity between all 3 lugs (7,8 & 9) at the same time, regardless of sequence (i.e. 8>7, 8>9, 7>9).
Even after pressing the switch, the results are the same.

Granted, I'm operating the switch without power because it is completely disconnected from the PCB, but I cant imagine that would matter.

Please advise.

Thanks,
~Troy

Yes, sounds like a bad switch. Replace it. If you contact sales@buildyourownclone.com, I'm sure they'll send you one at no cost. Tell 'em that Morgan & DVM sent you.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Crap....Just to make certain there are/were no other underlying issues besides the switch, I tested the contact points on the PCB.
I found that I have continuity between 7 & 2
Is that normal?

~Troy

Pad 2 is ground. Pad 7 connects to the output pot. If you have the output pot turned all the way down, pad 7 would be grounded and connect to pad 2. If you turn up the output pot, that connection should break (you should have some resistance across those 2 points).

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

Excellent!
Yep...I had the Output control all the way down. After turning it up....no more continuity


I think I'm all set now.

Once i get a new switch installed, I will post an update.

Thanks for all your help Morgan and Voodoo and Spin!
Couldn't have figured this out without you.
You guys ROCK!

~Troy

Update...

I noticed on the switch that the #7 lug was vastly shorter than the rest so I took the switch apart and... sure enough, the lug was pushed so far in that it was in constant contact with the switch pad.

I heated up the glue holding the lug and readjusted it to the proper height.

I reassembled the switch and tested it. All appears normal now.

I will report back once the glue holding the switch together sets.



~Troy

ok.

Now I have sound, both with the pedal on and in bypass. So I "think" everything is ok with the switch now.

But now I have zero phasing effect

With the module unplugged, I do get bypassed sound, but of course when I switch the pedal on, i get no sound.

With the module plugged in, I do get sound both in bypass and with the pedal on...and the LED responds to the Rate adjustments but there is no phasing effect no matter where the other controls are set.

All of the trim-pots are set mid-way.

I re-flowed all of the pots and made sure they are not coming into contact with one another or anything on the PCB.

I have checked to make sure I didnt leave any wire trimmings on the PCB.

Uuuuugh! Lol.

Now what?

You should be able to get dry signal through the pedal even if you don't have a module installed. Make sure the input and output controls are all the way up and then sweep the mix control - full CCW is dry signal only and you should have signal in effect mode with or without a module installed (because the dry signal path does not go through the module PCB).

If you do get dry signal after adjusting the controls, with the module installed, make sure you set the mix knob at 50% for maximum phase depth and very slowly adjust the trim pot on the module PCB. The range for phasing is usually extremely narrow and is not always right at 50% on the trimmer.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

BINGO!
Adjusting that trim pot did the trick!


I've got PHASE!

Waaahooo!

Thanks Morgan!!!

~Troy

Boss level DIY move!

Congrats on getting it working.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Yeah buddy! Thanks!