Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hello all!
I've happily joined your ranks - completed a Confidence Boost without issue, and a Mimosa Jr with only one minor hiccup (mis-connected the input jack).
Anyhoo.
Now that I have a CB I was wondering if there's a way to install an on/off switch that will allow me to keep the buffer on at all times, but bypass the boost stage. Due to space I might even settle for a toggle rather than a stomp (the can I want to install it in is perfect for it, but a smidge thin).
Also wondering how to install a volume pot, however I might settle for just the off/on.
And finally, if I can have an off/on I'd also like to have an LED.
I've searched for all these things here, and I know they can be done, but I keep hitting missing links and absent images.
Thanks!

Here's a link to a wiring diagram that shows how to include a footswitch and an external pot for volume control:

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewto ... 632#p67632

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

This pedal doesn’t have a built in buffer does it? He said he wanted to bypass the boost and keep the buffer, but I’m pretty sure that’s not a thing with this pedal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

The first half of the CB circuit is a unity gain buffer. It’s the same buffer circuit I use in my Micro Buffer. It’s also used in the BYOC wah.

_________________
"It’s your soldering."

Thanks, DVM!

Well, there you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

Actually, looking at it again, mildly confused. Does this wiring bypass everything or just bypass the boost stage?
I'd like the buffer to be always on and the boost optional.

Sorry, it bypasses everything. I didn't read your post carefully enough!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Aha.
Can I interrupt things between the buffer and boost or just accept that the most control I get over the situation is to add a real pot?

After installing the footswitch, it should be pretty straightforward to set the trimpot for unity gain (i.e., where it doesn't reduce or increase the clean volume). But I bet you could also find the last component in the buffer and run a wire from it straight to the output jack, thus bypassing the boost stage. Someone else is probably better able than I am to help you find that exact point.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Basically, what you need to do is to cut into the circuit between the buffer and the boost stages and wire in a 3PDT footswitch there. I would use the C2 cap position (the the one in the middle of the PCB) for that purpose. Remove the cap and solder one leg of that cap to lug 4 of the footswitch. Then connect a wire between the input eyelet of the C2 position and the other leg of the relocated cap. Next, connect the output side of the C2 cap position, which is the start of the transistor boost stage, to lug 5 of the footswitch. For the boost output, connect the "out tip" eyelet on the PCB to lug 7 of the footswitch, and wire lug 8 to the tip of the output jack. The rest of the footswitch should be wired per that diagram that I linked above. You'll have to decide if you want to add an indicator LED and current-limiting resistor to lug 1. This is not needed for the operation of the pedal; it's just a convenience. You'll also need to decide whether or not to replace the trimpot with an external volume control pot.

Feel free to ask follow up questions, which I expect you'll have. I'd provide a diagram for this hookup, but I'm not at home where I can do that. You may find the info in this post to be helpful in understanding how this modification works: http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewto ... 31&t=30938

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks!

Sorry for the bump, but my parts have arrived. DVM, do you still have that diagram? Bypassing the boost but buffer always on?

I've made a diagram based on your description, but it doesn't seem to make sense.
Issues:
Doesn't have a ground
Doesn't seem to connect the output of the cap to the output jack.

If one way gives me circuit broken off at a connecting cap and doesn't connect to the output jack and one way gives me a the output of a broken circuit, isn't this really just a switch between two versions of a broken circuit?

Patience! I will try to work up a detailed diagram on Saturday. Been out of town for a couple of days, down in NYC seeing Joe Bonamassa at the Beacon.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Also, now engaged it's a volume decreaser.
Full right = no sound.
1/4 = sound
middle = some sound
left of middle = various degrees of less sound.
Unplugging it = full volume.
I'm about ready to throw it out quite honestly.

No need for that. You just need to get it wired up correctly, and we'll get you a diagram to do that. Stay chilly in the meantime.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

OK, the wiring diagram below should accomplish what you've described that you want to do. If you also want an external volume pot instead of the internal trimpot, refer to the link that I posted early on in this thread.

You can leave the LED connection out if you don't want an engaged/bypassed indicator light.

CORRECTED DIAGRAM:

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Most excellent! Thank you so much! I'll give it a go later on today!

No problem, HTH.

BTW, I should have labeled that current-limiting resistor for the indicator LED; it's a 4.7 Kohm, though pretty much anything between 1K and 10K should work just fine. Also, you can connect the LED at any convenient point on the 9V power rail--you don't have to splice it into the wire between the power jack and the PCB as it's drawn on the diagram. A convenient connection point would be the bottom of that polarity protection diode right next to the "red" eyelet on the PCB. Just hook the wire connection for the LED around the lead of the diode there and solder it in place.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Doesn't work.
It's either all on or a dead signal.

When is it all on and when is it a dead signal? Please describe the two different conditions.

Two additional things:

• A set of good photos would be very helpful. Could you please post shots of both sides of the PCB and all of the jack & switch wiring? They need to large, well-focused & well-lit photos so that we can see a lot of detail. Here's an example of the photo quality we love to see: viewtopic.php?p=482910#p482910
• Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to use one?

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

On it engages - boosts, passes sound, lights an LED.
Off it's a full mute.

Sorry, my fault! I got the two ends of that cap's connections on the board backwards! Switch the two blue wires on the PCB and I'll bet she works correctly.

I'll correct the diagram and re-post it.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2