Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Here are the latest Brit 45 schematic (date 8/27/15; corrected multiple errors) and a corresponding turret board diagram with each component labeled with it's schematic designation:

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

What is the value of D1? My kit did not come with a diode and I'm at a stand still for now.

Yep, no diode in mine, either. I'll notify BYOC of the oversight.

In any case, it's labeled on the schematics--it's a 1N4007, a 1000V-rated rectifier diode. Fortunately, I had one on hand. Contact BYOC and they'll send one right out to you, though you may want to just check your local electronics store.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks! I've heard of some using a 1N5408, which I have MANY of at work. I think all of my local Radio Shacks have closed, so I may have to just wait it out.

I'm coming in the home stretch on my JTM45 kit. I noticed that there is a ceramic 1k resistor in the pack that I assume is the 3W mentioned in the parts list. This component has lettering, not stripes. However, in the instructions, only a 2W is mentioned, has the traditional striped appearance, and the sizing of a 2W in the photo. (Step 28, pg. 45) When I completed that step, I used a 1k that looks like what is pictured. After noticing the ceramic piece on the table, I scoured the instructions and layout to figure out where it goes to no avail. Am I just seeing remnants of previous versions of instructions and parts?

Did the 2W 1K color banded resistor that you used come in the Brit 45 kit?

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I think I figured out part of what happened: A while back, a visiting family member "moved some of your junk so we could watch TV in the bonus room." I had everything carefully laid out and in the process of soldering. They lost a few parts in the process, most of which I found in the couch or on the floor. I thought the 1K resistor was one of these parts, and had bought it and a few other components the last time I was at a local electronic store. I realize now that is where the 2W 1k resistor came from that I have installed. This is what the instructions show, but not what the parts list calls for. I still have that ceramic resistor on the bench, should I pull out the 2W?

I doubt that it's necessary, since the parts list, installation directions, and amp schematic all show a 2W resistor there. But if it's an easy swap for you, it certainly wouldn't hurt. I'll ask Nick to comment on this....

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

As long as the resistors you place are at least the wattage shown in the schematic, you will be alright. It won't hurt to have a 3W in a 2W spot, or a 2W in a 1W spot, but I wouldn't recommend putting a 1W in a 2W spot, 2W in a 3W spot, etc. if that makes sense. So as long as you're following that guideline, you should be just fine.

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The tone is in my hands?!
Email: nick@buildyourownclone.com

Note there is a small error in the schematic diagram. The power on pilot light should be connected behind the main switch. Also it is recommended to ad 2 resistors of 5k6 as grid stopper to the KT66 tubes at socket point #5. This helps to elminiated any occilation.

Note that the grid stopper resistors should be connected in series to the #5 connections of each output tube

There are 2 other small updates to be made in the schematic diagram dated 07/16/2015. The Bass control pot.meter should be indicated as "logaritmic" so to read "A", while at the Mid pot. meter the indication "B" is missing for linear.