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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 9:56 pm 
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From what I understand, you had the amp chassis working but the bulb would not light. Then you mounted the chassis into a cabinet and the light worked but the amp made no sound, and the 5Y3 lit up but the 6V6 and the 12AX7 did not light. Is that all correct?

Yes except that the cabinet really had nothing to do with the amp not working. During all the wrestling to get the screws to go through the top holes in the cabinet, one of the green heater wires broke near the joint. In other words, when one heater wire was disconnected, the light worked and the amp did not work. When the heater wire was reconnected, the light did not work.

Quote:
Also, let's get a fresh round of updated photos showing the current condition of all power transformer wire connections, a good photo of the lamp base, and a good pic of the green heater wiring.

Roger that.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 12:24 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 12:10 pm 
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OK, I *think* I figured out the problem. I realized that the wires look good so the problem must be in the lamp assembly. I sort of wiggled it around and pushed the back half towards the front of the amp. Then voila, I get the lamp and power to the heaters, and the amp works. Now I'll need to see if I can get it into the box w/o breaking anything! I will keep you posted.

In the meantime, does anyone know what I did wrong in testing the voltages on the heater setup? Should I have used the low voltage jack for the positive end? It was definitely set to AC voltage so I don't think an incorrect setting was the issue. Hopefully I'm in good shape now but I'd like to know for future reference in case I want to do mods, etc.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 12:58 pm 
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Nice! I would get a new lamp holder before you bother assembling everything. It will lead to problems down the road and could mess things up worse.

Just because the meter was set to voltage doesn't mean the meter wasn't passing current. It's just that the meter wasn't reading it. Usually the black goes in the COM terminal and the red goes in VOM or something similar. That one is usually on the right in my experience.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 1:47 pm 
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robgar91 wrote:
I would get a new lamp holder before you bother assembling everything. It will lead to problems down the road and could mess things up worse.

Excellent advice. Leaving that wonky lamp holder in place is just asking for future headaches. I'm confident that if you ask BYOC for a replacement, they would send you one for no charge. I suspect that one was defective from the get-go.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 5:30 pm 
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Quote:
Nice! I would get a new lamp holder before you bother assembling everything. It will lead to problems down the road and could mess things up worse.


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Leaving that wonky lamp holder in place is just asking for future headaches. I'm confident that if you ask BYOC for a replacement, they would send you one for no charge. I suspect that one was defective from the get-go.


Thank you this is great advice. I already put it in the head cab and have been blasting it, but I need to take it out at some point to paint the head cab. (FWIW, the head cab I built looks awful, but I'm thinking I can cover it up with stickers and it will look very punk rock).


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 7:27 pm 
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Hello everyone, I'm sorry to say this, but after I put the chassis in the head cab, I hit another snag. When I plugged everything in, I played, and there was no initial attack--but then the sound that swelled up and down, like a very slow oscillation. While it was still boxed, I wiggled around the blue wire from the OT, and that restored the sound. A little more light wiggling and the sound went out again. Very frustrating.

I was hoping that a solder joint came loose, but when I pulled the chassis out I took a look and there were no broken connections. The solder joints from the OT looked ok, though its hard to tell for sure.

I am hoping that there isn't a problem with the wires coming out of the output transformer. Is this possible? How could I test the wire connections to the OT?

I can obviously re-solder any of the connections from the OT to the turret board or tube sockets. Anything else to try?

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 8:12 pm 
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Cut a little bit off the blue wire, re-strip it and reconnect it. Try again.


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