Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hi,
This is my first post. I am finally getting around to build my first pedal - A Large Beaver that I bought a looooong time ago when it had the EQ rotary knob. I've looked up general soldering tips and the READ THIS FIRST thread here on the board.

One quick question. The first step in the instructions is installing the 1N914 diodes. Is it important that the solder does not touch each other on the side by side diodes? Looking at the next step, installing the resistors, it looks though there is more space for the side by side pieces, but this holes for these diodes are really close together.

No worries about solder bridges on those particular spots. The ends of the diodes are connected in the circuit. For future reference: if you have a multimeter, you can use the continuity function to test whether any two eyelets are already connected before you populate the PCB.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Thanks! Ok, here I go...

The universe doesn't want me to build pedals. I dropped one of the diodes and it disappeared. Can I continue the build and go back to this one part when I get the replacement? Or do the parts need to be installed in the order of the instructions?

The instructions are in an order simply for ease of population. You can place components in any order you'd like. Carry on, and look for the diode later if you want, no worries.

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The tone is in my hands?!
Email: nick@buildyourownclone.com

Ok thanks!

Ok, one more thing. I went over the parts list, Looks like I will need a multimeter to distinguish between the 4 x 10k and 1 x 120ohm resistors. And I have 8 yellow unmarked parts that I assume are the 2 x .01uf film (103 or 10n) and 6 x 0.1uf film (104 or 100n) capacitors. A multimeter is probably needed to figure out those values too.

True, for the 10K and 120R resistors, since they are visually indistinguishable due the the color band sequences being mirror images of each other. However, capacitors are virtually always marked, though sometimes with tiny lettering. Get yourself a magnifying device of some kind and inspect them carefully under a good strong light source. If you have trouble decoding the markings, post them EXACTLY here, and we'll assist you with that.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

After studying the solder technique, I have tried to solder my first resistor.

After letting the iron heat up for about 10 minutes, then touching the resistor lead and metal ring on the PCB for about 10 seconds, then touching the solder to the lead and the ring - avoiding the iron - the solder is not melting. Holding the iron there a lot longer, the solder still is not melting. Is the soldering iron I'm using not powerful enough to create enough heat?

This is the iron I'm using:
http://www.pacific-electronics.com/proskit-ss-201.asp

The solder is 60% tin 40% lead

Did you "tin" the tip of the iron before trying to solder with it? Where do you have the station's temp control set? Have you tried melting solder directly onto the iron tip? I have to admit--14 watts seems pretty low powered (20 - 40W is more typical for this type of use), and I would be concerned that the extra-long tip and thin design of that iron would be prone to rapid heat loss.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I did tin the tip, or so I thought. After checking that technique out again, I was doing it wrong. Able to move forward, thanks! But it does seem like for it to work properly with this iron, I have to tin and then touch the ring on the PCB pretty quickly - and get the solder there quick too. Maybe need to get a more powerful soldering iron. Also, some thinner solder seems like it would help.

Probably a good idea. This one that BYOC sells works very well for pedal building and is also extremely reasonably priced for a temp-controlled station: https://buildyourownclone.com/collectio ... er-station


I find that the 0.03" diam. solder (rosin core, of course) works very well for pedal work.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks again!

I just want to say thanks agin for the answers and advice above. I actually bought and built a Color Booster instead because it was listed as an "easy" kit. I finished it and I works!!!

Nice work! Glad to hear it. You should post a thread in the "show off your completed build" forum. We love to see new builder success stories!

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Thanks, I did

I'm finally feeling confident to start on this Large Beaver - after successfully finishing a Color Boost and a Yellow Overdrive.

The kit I have is from early 2008. I am 99% sure I chose the Triangle version at the time of purchase - I have all the parts on the "Populating the Circuit Board" page for the Triangle specs. And, if I am reading this correctly, by choosing what transistors to use (either BC239C or 2N5188) in Q1-Q4, AND what resistors to use in R1 and R15 (either 100 ohms or 820 ohms), the Triangle Version 1 or 2 can be made. Is that correct? The kit included all those parts. If that is correct, what is the difference between Triangle Version 1 & 2?

Yes, you could build either version. The version 1 has more available gain and is the more popular version.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks! Is there a great difference in the sound of the versions?

No, the v.1 will just get a little fuzzier at the max. sustain setting.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2