You should find this post quite helpful in understanding the signal path through that rotary switch in the LB 2.0:
viewtopic.php?p=150760#p150760That said, it would still be highly advisable to remove that switch so that you don't have the possibility of parallel signal paths between your "hard-wired" path and the switch connections, since it sounds like there may still be some functionality there. Having done this myself (one the old BYOC Tri-Boost, which used the same 3P4T rotary) I can tell you that it's very doable with a combination of patience and the right tools, specifically a "
solder sucker" and some good quality
desoldering braid. You just have to be careful not to force anything, because that's how you tear up the eyelets and traces on the PCB and create more problems for yourself.
Replacement switches are available from Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/E- ... zjJw%3D%3D
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