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I think the best advice is to spend as much time reading ahead of time so that you know what you are getting and what you aren't getting at any given price point.
The first thing to understand is what each type of laser does. If you are looking to etch paint/powder coat from an enclosure, you are talking about a CO2 laser. This won't etch metal, regardless of laser power; it's the wrong frequency. For etching metal, you need a Yag or Fiber laser. The cool thing is that CO2 lasers can do a lot of things. They can etch paint, powder coat, anodized metal, acrylic, glass, wood, and a bunch of other materials. It can also cut acrylic, matboard, wood, and a bunch of other materials.
It doesn't take much power to etch metal boxes. The power of the laser tube comes into play in the speed of the etch and, even more so, in the thickness of the material you want to cut. For reference, we etch boxes with a 30W laser.
So what does one look for in a laser engraver?
Software: This is my biggest compliant about the cheaper machines. Sure they aren't as heavy duty, but this is usually what can make a cheaper machine frustrating. Make sure it can handle vector formats, such as Adobe Illustrator and Corel Draw. Some of them just support JPG and GIF. The better machines use a standard Windows print driver so you can print from any program to it. It doesn't sound like a big deal, but when you are trapped using bad software, it can get frustrating. Some of the companies out there have made a decent chunk of money taking an $800 laser engraver and adding new controller boards and software to it to make it usable.
Hardware: Not surprisingly, the better machines use better, more accurate motors. I would check the specifications on the motor type and tolerances of the machine. Unfortunately, some of the cheaper machines vastly overstate their capabilities here. I am not sure what you can do to avoid that except read as much as possible. Calibration is a BIG thing with laser engraving. Repeatability can be a challenge even with the better machines. It can be frustrating when you engrave a power coated enclosure and it's off-center. Make sure the machine can adjust for it (not all can). Companies will make a big deal about auto-focus. It's convenient at times, but not necessary; I don't think it's worth spending a lot extra for. The main thing is that you can manually calibrate the machine accurately. Also double check the X-Y-Z bed dimensions to make sure they suit your needs.
Venting: This is the most underestimated part of buying a laser. It needs proper ventilation. If you only ever etch powder coat/paint, it's a bit less of an issue, but most people end up using their laser to cut materials (if for no other reason that to make etching fixtures). You need air flow while the machine is running. Without it, you can burn your house down. I've seen acrylic burst into open flames when the air wasn't turned on. Usually this is done with a small compressor and fan.
Serviceability: Laser engravers have some consumable parts and other parts will just wear down with use. In the first couple of years with the one at work, we had to change a number of parts and we would've been up a creek if there were no replacement parts. If you go with a Chinese vendor, I recommend finding one that's been in business for a while and offers replacement parts. Expecting that the laser tube will have to be changed every 2 years or so (give or take). From what I read, the cheaper machines go through tubes faster, but the tubes are MUCH cheaper, so that's an advantage for those types.
Good luck on your search. In the other thread I said I wasn't able to find a cheap Chinese machine that suited my particular needs, but plenty of people do. I hope you can find one that suits yours. After doing a bunch of reading, my only real strong recommendation is to avoid Precision Laser. I've read too many horror stories from their customers over the years. Again, read for yourself and decide what matters to you.
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