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Hello. I just finished my second pedal kit, a Large Beaver Triangle. I initially had some problems with it, but the folks over in the tech support forum helped me get it sorted out (along with some excellent customer service from BYOC).

It has the dubious distinction of being the first project where I've ever had to use a solder sucker, so...

Great looking pedal! Love the graphics! Nice job.

-=SteveO

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Wow, I like that one, nicely done.


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Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

Looks great!

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Everyone likes sausage. Nobody wants to see how it's made.

Came out great! That finish job looks totally PRO!

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Looks fantastic. Very well done.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Thanks everyone. The design is a complete ripoff of the DOD Overdrive/Preamp 250, but it was something that I could pull off with the software that I have on hand (MS Word, lol) to make a waterslide decal.

It was better on the first fuzz that I made (not a BYOC), and I probably should have done something more unique, although it's kind of funny to me that they look like they're the same "brand":

"Knob" Love it!

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

They look fantastic, and the fact that you managed such a polished look with Word is even more impressive

2nd one...Fantastic!!! keep'em coming.

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Everyone likes sausage. Nobody wants to see how it's made.

all hail, Large Beavers

Just a followup: this pedal is rad. The "Aggressively Disinterested" pedal mentioned in this thread is not on my board...it's got that old-school unbuffered thing going on where it kind of needs to see the pickup directly and its only speed is "out of control." That can be fun, but the "Dubious Distinction" (the Large Beaver Triangle) is permanently on my board. It can do a huge range of things wild fuzz to Gilmourish solos and sounds good with any guitar and amp combo. I've been screwing around with some truly stupid amps lately, and that Beaver still somehow manages to sound good.

For example, I made this cheesy amp based on an LM386 in a Ruby circuit.





And then I wanted a cab for it because it freaks me out to unplug the speaker from my tube amps (knowing I'll blow them up if I try to use them with no load) and a friend of mine kept going on and on about how I needed to have more than one speaker in a cab for it to sound good, because "more speakers always sound better." So to prove him wrong I hacked together this 16x2 cab:


(PacMan arcade game shown for scale)

Anyway, even through that ridiculous rig, the Large Beaver holds up.

LOVE that speaker cab!!! Nice work on the pedals as well, but WOW on that cab. Great idea!

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Not really.

It does not have the qualities of anything traditionally considered "good." Although in reality, the first thing engineers do is turn down the bass on the guitar tracks so that it doesn't compete with other instruments in a mix, and that is certainly not an issue here.

It is ok for late night not-annoying-the-neighbors playing though.

+1!

How many are wired in series vs. parallel, and what's the final cab impedance? Does it manage to have any appreciable bass response?




Proof of the old adage that, just because you CAN doesn't mean you SHOULD, eh?

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Wow, that’s seriously bad ass on a small scale…[FACE WITH STUCK-OUT TONGUE AND WINKING EYE]


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Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

All the speakers are 8ohms and it's all series/parallel so that it presents as 8ohms total. That's why there are 16...I only know how to make that work for multiples of 4.

The bass response is, uh, "none."

Yeah, I kind of thought that was how you would have done it. Yep, I'd do it in 4's, too.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Yeah, that's the most appealing thing about it. When I presented it to my friend, I had this whole preamble about how this concept was born in the outdoor festivals of the 60s and further refined by the Dead's Wall of Sound in the 70s.

Bwahahahaha Nice.


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Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

I'll just resurrect this thread because all the context is here, but I actually have a new question.

My "One Watt of Fury" LM386-based amp was working fine, but it sounds pretty bad and is noisy. I don't really ever expect it to sound "good" but I don't think it should be this noisy. It's also bothering me to be wasting a pedal power output on a reverb pedal when it should (in my mind) be in the amp. So I thought, "Can't I just permanently add the guts of a reverb pedal to it?" It turns out that I can.

I thought that some of the noise might be from my terrible perfboard layout, so I bought a pre-made PCB for the amp section and rebuilt the amp there to the same specs. Then I got the cheapest reverb pedal that I could find: the venerable Mosky Spring Reverb. This whole thing is completely bobo, and I'm not going for world-class sound here, but I will say that it was an interesting learning experience for a newb like me to disassemble a factory-made pedal with all surface mount components and daughter boards and no schematic and try to reverse engineer it to work in a different context, with offboard knobs and no footswitch yadda yadda. I made a little box for it out of plywood and aluminum since it no longer fits in the pedal enclosure easily. The new enclosure is approximately 100x larger than necessary by volume, but at least the knobs and switches are comfortably arranged.



Those three big ICs on the reverb are PT2399s. Who knew?

My girlfriend had some blue sparkle vinyl left over from a sewing project that I used to cover it, so even if it sounds worse than a Peavey Rage's clean channel, it at least won't get lost among the other amps, visually.



Anyway, my question is, I got kind of twisted up when trying to figure out how to wire the switches. I basically have it set up where it's the reverb pedal before the amp, with true bypass on the reverb at the "reverb" toggle switch, then the power switch turns everything on and off. In retrospect, I bet I didn't need to separate out the power for the amp and reverb though, right, and having it be a 3PDT was completely superfluous? Also, I had no idea when I bought this that a 3PDT switch with a full-sized toggle would be this enormous on the back, but here we are. It works, I just assume I overpaid for this weird of a switch when I could have run both PCBs (and possibly the LED too?) off of a single on/off switch. I'm still trying to figure this stuff out. I guess when you learn on pedals, every problem looks like it could be fixed with a 3PDT switch.

Sparkly & spacious! NICE!!

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2