Build Your Own Clone Message Board

A few weeks ago one of this forums members posted a question, if would be possible to wire the boost portion of the circuit in front of the Klone circuit (as built, it's connected after the Klone circuit). Here is the original post: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=59519&p=498264&hilit=tinker#p498264.
The answer was yes, it was just a matter of rewiring the boost and drive switch with an accompanying drawing. Also included in the drawing was how to add a switch (toggel or stomp) to allow one to switch between the two! I was in the middle of building a Silver Pony II when I came across the post and found it quite interesting. So with a little direction from duhvoodooman (Thank you sir!) I decided to do this mod. Results: What a terrific mod to an already great sounding pedal! However if I were to do this again, I would definitely use a toggle switch.

-=SteveO

Re: The missing knob, I've seemed have misplaced one but it is on order and will be here in no time.

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Nicely done Steve! You made an already versatile pedal even more versatile. (And you can always get a 3PDT toggle switch and change it up later.)

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Thanks Scott! I actually have a couple of those switches coming from "lovemyswitches.com"

-=Steve)

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

I love anything with a metal codpiece, even if it's on a centaur

but in all seriousness... does a centaur have two dongs? Like the man one up front and the horse one further back? And if not, what's going on in this artwork?

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CaptainPeyote, I never looked at it that way! I'm going with choice #2 and will just call him a 'full service' centaur!

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Looks fantastic, Steve!

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Nicely done! Love the graphics!
I have yet to address my bare enclosure.
Did you use a laser printer onto a water-slide decal?

I was happy with the wiring mod too. Love it.
I didn't add the 3rd switch though.

...he said dong...

~Troy

Thanks Troy! Yes, a white water~slide decal. One trick with using the white decal, if you print a border around the entire graphic you have be careful to cut up to but not the border. The first attempt showed a ever so slight white areas around the border. I didn't want to narrow the border by cutting off any of the black. Second and final attempt, I cut it as close as I could, but looking at it with magnification, I could still see several small, but noticeable, white areas. My cure was to run the edge of the decal on the edge of a black sharpie. Problem solved! The switch really makes it nice. You get the best of both worlds. Thank you for getting 'in the mood to tinker' and glad you posted the question!

-=SteveO

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Nicely done. It’s an awesome feeling modding these things and it turning out good.


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Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

That looks awesome

Just out of interest, is the reason that you're thinking of using a toggle rather than a foot switch the fact that you can't tell which order is selected by looking at the pedal with a foot switch?

I'm going to leave any speculation of the centaur's undercarriage to the experts

I like idea of a footswitch for switching on the fly, much easier than a toggle.


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Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

You can use a footswitch and a bicolor LED to indicate which effect order is active, but you need a 4PDT switch to do that.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

I like that idea much better! I'll place an order to Lawrence in a day or so and get the parts coming. Stand by for questions regarding wiring in the switch and LED! Lol!

-=SteveO

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Thank you!
I agree! Now that I have built 10 or so pedals, the real challenge is in the graphics/finishing and modifying them. I have the parts coming for the blue overdrive mod and constantly looking in the mod forum for other mods that I may like. I have also been in contact with Keith (byoc) about building an 8 output isolated power supply. I am looking forward to doing something totally from scratch. This stuff is very addicting....

-=SteveO

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Right on. Thanks for the tip, SteveO!

I also have at least 10 pedal kits w/various mods, under my belt and I am going to focus on the graphics side of things for a bit. I have done some painting and Ink Jet water-slide decal art but nothing too elaborate to this point.
I will be picking up a color Laser Jet printer in the near future and testing some vinyl prints as well.

I've used GIMP in the past but am looking for something a little simpler to navigate. I will have to search for something free and easy lol. I'd certainly be open to any suggestions for graphics programs.


~Troy

Regarding the graphics side of things, I have always used Photo Shop. Currently using the CS5 version. Other in this forum have suggested Inkscape as it does vectoring instead of pixel graphics like photo shop. It too is a free program. I have watched several youtube videos on it but still can't get the hang of it. Hard for this old dog to learn new tricks I guess. I have heard of, but never tried GIMP. I'll put that on my 'to do' list and check it out.

-=SteveO

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Looking at the bicolor LED lights I see there are 2 types. Common cathode and common anode. Which of these 2 would I need for this mod?
Thanks!

-=SteveO

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Hey SteveO. I just downloaded Inkscape and like it MUCH better than Gimp. Gimp, for the most part, is waay over my head so you may not like it either. I've already been able to do in minutes with Inkscape what took me hours to figure out with Gimp...lol. So I'm gonna roll with Inkscape for now

~Troy

It's pretty straightforward. You just wire three adjacent poles of the 4PDT footswitch exactly as shown in your diagram HERE. The 4th PDT is then what activates one side or the other of the bicolor LED. Here are the basics:

• Connect the pole (middle lug) of the 4th PDT to any grounded point in the circuit.
• Connect the two cathode leads (typically the two shorter ones) of the bicolor LED to the two throw (outer) lugs of the 4th PDT, one cathode connection to each of them. The 4th PDT of the switch now selects which of the two cathodes will have the required path to ground to light up. If you have specific colors in mind for each of the first/last modes, here is where you have to determine which cathode connects to which throw lug.
• Now you just need to supply power to the anode of the LED. A convenient point to tap in to the +9V supply would be the left leg of the 1N4001 diode immediately to the right of the charge pump. See marked up SPII PCB diagram below. IMPORTANT: You need to include a current-limiting resistor (CLR) between that diode leg and the LED anode, or it'll burn out as soon as power is connected. I'd use the usual 4.7K resistor for this.

I've included a simple schematic of this LED hookup below. NOTE THAT WITH THIS WIRING SCHEME, ONE OR THE OTHER SIDE OF THE BICOLOR LED WILL BE LIT UP AS SOON AS POWER IS CONNECTED TO THE PEDAL. Since this LED is only indicating which of the two circuits will be first when BOTH sides of the pedal are engaged, so I think this is the logical/best way to connect it.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thank you for the info. Seems pretty straight forward even for me. <G> Would it be possible to use a standard LED and only have it come on, say when you're in the modified circuit? That way the light wouldn't have to be on all the time? And could that be wired to the existing switch or would I still need the 4PDT foot switch? The only reason I ask is that I have a half dozen or so pre-wired LED's with chrome bezels in my parts box.

-=SteveO

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

Yep, shouldn't be a problem. You should be able to wire it up as above, just ignoring the part with the extra lead in the bi-color LED. You'll want to connect the black wire (I'm assuming it's black and red) to lug 10 or 12, depending on which one is the "on" state for the effect you want the LED to indicate. And then of course the pre-wired LED probably has the CLR included, so omit that and go straight to 9V+ with the red wire. You could connect that one first and then test the other end with the highly scientific Poke Test. As in, poke the switch lug with the wire lead to see if it comes on when you want it to.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

You still need the 4PDT, though, because you want it to turn off and on based upon the position of the effect order part of that switch.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Perfect! I've got a switch coming. I "dissected" one of the LED's today and it in fact has a resistor in place already (2.2k).
Thanks Scott!

-=Steve

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“To know, and not to do, is not to know”

'nuther winner

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