Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Evening All.
Long-time lurker, first post.

I've previously completed the OD2 and BBOD which were generally successful but struggled in both builds with the main PCB assembly bit.

Currently building the Green Pony which is a more difficult can of worms given its 3 pots and 2 switches.

Although I've read on this board some general alternate methods to get the pots, swiltches AND LED to line-up, I've so far not been successful with this build.

While I occasisonally get the 3 pots to line up, I can't get the LED and switches near the correct location at all.

So, I'm wondering if anyone has developed an alternate method, such as maybe lightly soldering one leg on each pot just to get them into the enclosure.

Thanks for any suggestions, and thanks to BYOC for the kits. I sold all my alleged bouteaque pedals and just use the BBOD and hope to add the Green Pony soon.

Glen - Dry Joints

I often do exactly this. Sometimes afterwards (after completing all the soldering) I see that the orientation of the pots is slightly skewed but if that's what makes their shafts fit in the holes, then fine. Also I'm not against slightly reaming out an LED hole to make the LED slip in more easily, since it's going to be held in by its soldered legs--which perhaps I only solder one of to begin with.

The builds with multiple pots and switches can definitely be tricky. I think you have the general idea for how to make it work: tack solder the middle lug or pin to the PCB to keep the component in place while you align it through the holes in the enclosure. Then loosely affix the washers and nuts, again just enough to keep it in place. Then melt the solder on each of the tack-soldered points to allow them to reposition into a more "comfortable" angle. (This step is important to help prevent broken joints when you make your final tighten of the nuts.) Then solder the other lugs and pins to solidify everything into place. Once you've done this, you should be able to remove it from the enclosure for whatever reason and and replace it without very much hassle.

A tip for the LED: put it through the PCB holes and then bend each leg 90° at the very end so that you could turn the PCB over and it won't fall out. After you've done the process I described above, you can use the LED legs to move the bulb into the right spot. Gently hold it in place and solder one of the legs to hold it at the right depth. Once you're sure everything else is right, you can solder the other leg and clip the excess off.

Like WMP1, I sometimes I widen the LED hole a bit. I like them to sit pretty close to flush with the top of the enclosure rather than poking all the way through, so if the hole needs widening, I use a drill bit slightly larger than the hole and twist it by hand from the inside to make a little bevel that allows the bulbs to peek through enough without allowing it to go all the way through.

Wrote a lot more than I meant to there! Let me know if you have any questions about my process.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Here's a different approach that works well for me and also guarantees stress-free solder joints on the pots and switches:

Instead of attaching the hardware to the PCB and then fitting that into the enclosure, I instead mount these items into the enclosure and fit the PCB over them. Here's how I do this stepwise--

• First, I mount any toggle switches into the enclosure, one at a time. Since the switch mounting lugs are not flexible like the pot legs are, these need to go in first. Mount the first switch, with the mounting nut just barely finger-tight. Then place the PCB down over the switch lugs and adjust the switch position as needed so that the PCB is centered and properly aligned in the enclosure. Add any additional switches using this same procedure and insuring that the PCB still slides down fairly easily over all of the switch pins. There should be enough "play" in the switch mounting holes of the enclosure to allow you to adjust the switch positions to mount the PCB on them. At this point, you should be able to tighten down the switch nuts snugly--do this with the PCB fitted on top of them to insure that the switches don't move as you tighten the nuts.
• Once the switches are all mounted and secured in the enclosure, move on to the pots. Again, you want to mount these one at a time, adjusting their positions so that the PCB slides down over the legs (as well as all the switch lugs, of course!). It's easier with the pots to adjust their positions because (1) there's a bit more play between the pot shafts and the enclosure holes, and (2) you can bend the pot legs quite easily to get them properly aligned with the mounting holes in the PCB. As each pot is correctly positioned, tighten the mounting nut to secure them in place. Repeat this procedure until all of the pots are properly mounted.
• With all of the hardware in place in the enclosure, you're ready to solder the PCB to the pot legs and switch lugs. You'll find that you can adjust the height that the PCB sits up off of the pots and switches, and it's good to leave a gap of 1/16" or so between the PCB and the point where it actually "bottoms out" against the hardware. This helps to avoid possible shorting between solder joints on the bottom of the PCB and any metal surfaces on the pots or switches.
• Once you have the PCB positioned on the hardware at the height you want, you're ready to solder. I prefer to do this with all of the connection wires for the jacks and footswitch pre-soldered to the PCB, along with all the board-mounted components. Also, don't forget to insert the indicator LED through the bottom side of the PCB and then bend it's leads about 1/4" from the ends to keep it from falling back out. I recommend starting by soldering two lugs that are situated diagonally a good distance apart, e.g. one nearest the upper left of the PCB and one nearest the lower right. Be careful not to apply downward force with your iron tip as you do this to avoid having the PCB slip down on the lugs from where you positioned it.
• Once all the hardware lugs are soldered, you can position the indicator LED into it's hole and solder it in place, and proceed to solder all the wiring to the jacks and footswitch lugs.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks to WMP1, sjaustin and duhvoodooman for great support.

I like the idea of attaching the switches first; these seem to be the most variable in their pin profile so the hardest to position.

I've also shaped a small piece of nylon to sit neately under the drive pot to ensure isolation from the PCB and get the right height, no guessing.

Unlike previous builds, I'm playing around with placement of pots etc before I populate the board; no chance of damaging the componenants while I tinker.

It's about to rain in biblical proportions here, so I'll have to be inside (soldering)

Glen

Just wondering re the LED. I'm considering using a LED 'socket' and attaching the LED legs to the PCB via ribbon cable.

Is this a really stupid idea?

Glen

I'm not sure I'm familiar with a socket that uses ribbon cable. Maybe post a photo of what you're considering?

A lot of us use LED bezels, if that's what you're thinking of. You'd need to widen the hole and make sure that the part you choose doesn't protrude so far into the enclosure as to come in contact with the PCB.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Thanks Scott. Yes, bezel is the term I should have used. I'll check its measurements WRT the PCB.

Glen