Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hey folks, i've been lurking here for the past week or two gathering painting and decaling tips (excellent info btw!!!) but i've run into a couple problems. The painting part of my job went pretty well but i'm having trouble with the decal. I bought some Walther's clear waterslide inkjet paper (they didn't have any laser and nobody else in town seemed to carry waterslide decals) but it didn't come with any instructions so i just did the best from the tips i gleaned in this thread.

Firstly, i had no idea how long the paper needed to dry after printing. I let it sit for an hour or two and then sprayed it with a few applications of clear coat but the ink still wouldn't fully dry. I put a fan on it for another hour or two and still no difference. So i decided to wet it anyways and see what happened. I'd say 90% of the ink stayed on the paper which was acceptable as i was only printing in black and after a couple attempts i managed to get the decal on my enclosure with as few bubbles as possible. It looked pretty decent (considering that i lost some detail on my design) so i decided to let it dry overnight. When i looked at it this morning i noticed that it become speckled with minute bubbles.

So is there something i did wrong in the printing/application process? After cutting it out i quickly dipped the decal in a bowl of water, removed the backing and placed it on the enclosure. After that i used a tissue to wipe it down and remove as many bubbles as i could. Is it possible to get the decal off my pedal without having to strip it and start from scratch? If so i would do that, but i'm really not struck on spending days painting it again.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

First off, you should only buy the paper for your Printer. You say you bought inkjet because they were out of laser, but what kind of printer are you using? Inkjet printer = inkjet paper. Laser printer = Laser paper.

Secondly, patience is key. After printing the decal, I let it dry overnight before spraying clear coat. After a pretty wet spray of clear coat (sometimes 2), I let it dry overnight again (at least 12 hours). Then you can cut, wet and apply.

Take your time...it will save you time in the long run.

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i have access to both kinds of printers. The one i used was an inkjet printer.

so is there any hope for getting that sucker off, or have i learned a valuable lesson about patience today?

If you didn't clear coat the pedal after the decal was on, it should peel right off.

Even if you gave it a couple of coats it should peel right off. You just may want to spray the whole pedal again with clear coat be reapplying.

To get bubbles out, I just take a wet sponge and very lightly work the bubbles out from center of pedal to outer edge.

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So even though it's had almost 24 hours to dry, it won't wreck the underlying paint job by peeling it off? Do i need to wet it again first? I put several coats of krylon paint over a few coats of primer and i still found it to be very delicate - i managed to nick it it a few inconspicuous spots even while being gentle with it.

And for future reference, is it advisable to spray the pedal with a few coats of clear before applying the decal, and then doing a few more after the decal?

Thanks for the help, btw. This is a new thing for me and I want to do it right the first time.

I always spray a few light coats of clear over the paint, let it dry according to the directions, and apply the decal, let it dry overnight, then clear when I can.

Great tips on doing decal's for enclousers. I just did my first for a Tri boost peddel.

Eddie

Do you really let the decals dry before adding Mirco Sol? This is what I did, but it seems the directions on the bottle say to add while they are wet?

::::::edit::::::

i am an idiot.
mods delete this post if necessary.

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95 Strat,

No, don't wait for the decal to dry. Just apply decal, gently dab with a dry tissue to get any bubbles out, and then start brushing on the Micro-Sol. Use a SOFT and clean brush, I stole one from my daughters arts and crafts stuff... applying Micro-Sol while the decal is still damp allows you to see it 'melt" onto the paint, find tiny air bubbles and pop them with a pin.

All this assumes laser paper, on your own with the ink jet stuff.

-Subba

Thanks Subba! I've got one I'm working on right now. I'll hit it while it's damp.

where would i be able to find Micro Sol, or something similar to it? or am i just going to have to order the stuff online?

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I just looked up hobby stores in the yellow pages and made a call. Got lucky with the first one. You can get it on e-bay if you can't find it locally. I'm sure some of the guys around here can tell you places they've ordered it from. It really is good to use. Makes all the difference in the appearance of the final look. However, it looks like crap when you apply it to your decal, but don't touch it after applying! Just let is dry and you'll see.

Great Topic!

My only question is: How do you cut out the holes for the knobs/switches/LED's? Before the decal goes on? After it is clearcoated? I read exacto knifes are bad; how else would I cut out the holes?

I did the micro sol thing, let it dry over night and then cut out the wholes before clear coating.

Small Bear sells it

Does anyeone have a Photshop/autocad template with the real dimensions of the pedals? All of your BYOC's.
I'd like to have some letters AROUND the footswtch and knobs, and it's pretty tricky to do it.
ANybody?

http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=12344

I know how to make the decals, but was wondering if someone had like the blueprints, to where the knobs are, etc...

I've not got around to doing a proper label yet but I scanned the box and used this in photoshop to line up the letters, a test print on some regular white paper and everything is lined up fine.

Just thought I would share a free graphics program I found for those of us that don't have photoshop or $1000 to spend on it. Paint.NET. Get on CNET Downloads.com. This is the only freeware that supports layering so yoU can line up the scans of your enclosures etc. It also has a good support system through forums.

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That which you fear, you draw near.

Awesome - thanks for this! I'll give a go at downloading it tonight at home.

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µ

I have a templet I've made in Photoshop, but it's for the boxes you get from PPP. I don't think it would work with the BYOC layout. It's a PSD file. If anyone is interested PM me and I'll e-mail it to you.

What is the number one thing to keep in mind If I want my graphic to look real real shiny ..? Just like the second photo of the Camel ciggs....

Like candy..... or like jello I guess...just real bloody shinny and glossy

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Hello to everybody. This is my first post. I've recently completed my first build, which was a Mouse kit. I have been lurking here at the forum ever since I've been considering building a kit, but I'm officially in now. Just this evening I've been working on mocking up a decal for the Mouse. Below is a sample, but it still needs a little work. I need to move or resize the main title a bit and I need to label the In, Out, and 9V connections, but I'm thinking of just doing those on the sides. I'm planning on painting the box white and using clear decals. Also, I was thinking about just putting numbers 1-6 on the face of the pedal to label the different modes and then putting the information about the modes on one of the sides. I know it's nothing too fancy, but it's a work in progress and I've still got some sanding and painting to do before I have to worry about the decal. Well, here's the sample: