Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hi,

First time builder here, trying to get effect out of this Large Beaver Ram's Head. In the process of debugging the circuit and flipping it back and forth, I ended up breaking and fixing the bottom connection with power jack a couple of times. Now it's less than ideal, but there is definitely a connection there. I get sound coming through in bypass mode.

I followed the instructions on viewtopic.php?f=51&t=22435 ensuring connectivity into the foot switch at lug 4 and out on lug 5, as well as and between the volume pot and lug 8. It appears that something is wrong on the PCB itself. Using a signal tester I was able to get signal out of foots witch lug 5, and traced it through to the 470k resistor you can see in the schematic. Oddly I am only able to pick up a signal on the entry into the resistor and not the output which goes to C3. I have reflowed the whole PCB a couple times, and the board is starting to show signs of that.




Red in the picture below has signal, but yellow parts are where it stops.



Original files here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jGEcj5WmR3Kq6R3W9


Not sure if I am missing something obvious, any help is appreciated! Thanks.

Please reflow the solder joints in the corner associated with Q1. If that doesn't fix the problem, please take voltage readings of Q1.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Just worth a check: did you confirm the value of the 120R resistor located right above the BYOC sheep graphic on the PCB? Those 120R resistors can't be visually distinguished from a 10K because the color band sequences are mirror images of each other. If it's actually a 10K, that Q1 transistor will have a gain factor of 1 (10K/10K) instead of 83 (10K/120). And if (worst case) you actually swapped the 120R with the 10K two spots over, the gain becomes 120/10K = 0.012!

At the end of that 470K resistor you've marked in red, I hear signal on my own LB-RH, but it is noticeably quieter than the bypassed signal. But at the end you have marked in yellow, as well as both ends of that 0.1uf cap you've circled in yellow, I get a much stronger signal--louder than bypass and more distorted.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Got it to work, thanks. I resoldered that area along with some other suspicious bits, changed the battery as well. Now it sounds great.

Thanks for all the help. Much appreciated!

Ah, good news! Enjoy the new pedal!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2